Sorry loyal followers and readers. I know I have been slacking recently... I was in Florence the majority of last week and didn;t have my computer with me : ( So, no updates. But, it is terribly late here in Roma and I'm reeeeaaaal sleepy, so I will update SOON. I promise.
The previous post is for my art history class... this is how we turn in our papers. ha.
Stay tuned... more interesting post will be here shortly :)
Monday, July 13, 2009
Art History Written Report
Remembering Trajan’s Forum, Market and Column
Introduction:
It is hard to imagine that the now cat-trodden forum and myriad of marble pieces was once “the greatest fora of all time.” Nearly two thousand years ago, the forum and market of Trajan was a sign of Roman glory and grandeur at its height. Boasting larger than life statues, colossal marble columns, heroic tales retold through intricate carvings, sparkling bronze roof tiles, and the hustle and bustle of the market, Trajan’s forum proclaimed that Rome was the center of ancient civilization. But, as you know, Rome was not built in a day and this atmosphere of excess was not always the case.
In AD 96 the Flavian dynasty came to an end when Titus Flavius Domitianus was assassinated. His death marked the beginning of a new era—the reign of the “Five Great Emperors.” This period consisted of a series of emperors known for less oppressive and tyrannical policies. Coincidentally, each of these men were adopted by the reigning emperor and chosen to succeed him. Marcus Cocceius Nerva followed Domitian with a short two-year reign. During this time, Nerva chose to adopt the current Commander of Upper Germany, Marcus Ulpius Traianus (Trajan), as his successor. When Nerva died in AD 98, Trajan became emperor.
Born in the south of Spain into a noble Italo-Hispanic family, Trajan aspired to be like Alexander and one day conquer the East. It is said that Trajan, the first non-Italian emperor, was divinely chosen for his role. With a strong military background, Trajan organized his leadership much like a general and subordinate officers; he relied heavily on provincial governors to make the majority of decisions. Only matters of extreme importance came before Trajan.
Marcus Ulpius Traianus, scuplted in Roman battle garb
Along with the empire, Trajan inherited an unsettled situation among the Germanic tribes and Dacians across the Danube River. Dacia, a highly organized barbarian kingdom, threatened the Danube frontier as one of Rome’s most capable enemies. With his military expertise, Trajan developed a campaign to defeat the Dacians. After a short-term victory over the Dacians in 101 AD, with the help of Apollodorus of Damascus, an ingenious sculptor and engineer, Trajan devised a plan to forever settle the Danube dispute. Developing an immense road system, the Romans gradually built a floating roadway across the Danube River. Such a feat had never been accomplished and the engineering skill was unfathomable. Dio Cassius, author of the only written record of the Dacian campaigns, describes how the Romans used the bridge to invade and vanquish the Dacians. Dio Cassius captures the compassionate nature of Trajan as he wrote:
"When the bandages gave out, he is said not to have spared even his own clothing, but to have cut it up into strips. In honor of the soldiers who had died in the battle he ordered an altar to be erected and funeral rites to be performed annually."
Trajan was an emperor who truly cared about his people and fellow soldiers. Bringing back 180 tons of gold and 360 tons of silver, the sheer amount of Trajan’s loot, actually caused the value of the metals to fall. With the winnings, Trajan funded 123 straight days of gladiatorial battles—with over 10,000 pairs of gladiators and 11,000 animals. The number of games in this year (AD 107) alone exceeded the sum of all the fights during Augustus’ entire reign.
Description/Function
The Forum
Trajan’s forum was built between 107 and 113 AD with booty from the Dacian wars. Apollodorus of Damascus and Trajan joined forces once again to achieve the impossible. Deciding to locate the forum between the Capitoline and Quirinal hills, workers excavated through the mountain for the forum’s prime location. Although several other emperors had built previous forums, Trajan sought to construct a forum unparalleled in size or grandeur. The forum was different from others in its time because instead of a temple at the far end of the forum, there was the Basilica Uplia, a law court. The forum was also unique for its layout resembling the organization of a military camp. This was undoubtedly inspired by the excessive amount of time Trajan spent within military camps.
Birdseye View, Layout of the Forum/Market
The gigantic forum measured 300 meters by 185 meters. By no coincidence, the only entrance into the forum was near Augustus’ forum. Heralded as the greatest emperor since Augustus, there had been many similarities between the two distinguished men. The sole entrance to the forum led the visitor under an impressive triumphal arch flanked by columns on either side. Inside the entry, visitors were met by an enormous bronze statue of Trajan in a four-horse chariot accompanied by trophies of Victory. Beyond the statue was the two-story Basilica Ulpia (named after Trajan’s family) boasting of Corinthian and Ionic columns. The gold and purple-veined Tunisian marble steps lead up to where business and important trials were conducted. Above and below, marble tiling covered the ceiling and floors, and the structure was roofed with gilded bronze tiles. Within each arch stood statues of solemn and defeated-looking Dacian soldiers reminding the Roman people of their dominance and power. Above the soldiers, shields depicting Trajan’s generals were hung. Measuring 395 by 180 feet, the enormous size of the Basilica Ulpia hid much of Trajan’s column, the libraries and the Temple of the Divine Trajan from view. As one walked through the forum, there were an increasing amount of monuments and facilities visible. After Trajan died, Hadrian constructed the octastyle temple with each Egyptian column measuring two meters in diameter. The temple took 11 years to complete- finally being finished in AD 128.
The Market
Trajan’s market was essentially the first indoor shopping experience. Dating back to AD 104-110, it is thought that the markets were built after the completion of the forum and hid the scarred mountainside. Brick stamps on the building materials suggest the age of the monument. The shape of the market is a multistory hemicycle forum separated from the forum with a high wall of peprino stone. This wall was thought to provide a shield from potential fire damage. Within the markets there was a minimum of at least 150 shops and offices. The ground floor was the center of activity. Here the shops, known as tabernae, were a barrel-vaulted shape. Due to the small size of the tabernae, the store owner would meet the customer at the door. The shops were ornately decorated with mosaics depicting the wares of the store such as wine, oil, seafood, groceries, vegetables, and fruit. On the second floor there were larger shops and offices that could be accessed by stairs on either end of the market. Separating the lower and upper floors was a street known as Via Biberatica. “Biber” meaning “drink” suggested that along this stretch were taverns and grocery stores. The arched concrete roof protected shoppers from the outdoor elements without compromising the natural sun lighting.
Modern View of Trajan’s Market
In the Middle Ages, the market underwent some construction- adding an
additional floor and the Torre delle Milizie, a fortified watchtower built in 1200. Even later, a convent was built on the same location, but it was demolished when the restoration of the markets began.
The Column
The inscription on the column suggests the column was built “to show how lofty had been the mountain- and the site for such mighty works was nothing less- which had been cleared away.” Reaching nearly 40 meters (100 Roman feet) high, the column is supposedly the height of the mountain that previously stood in its place. Running from bottom to top is a 200 meter-long frieze. The carvings retell the stories of the Dacian wars. The bottom half of the column illustrates the small battles, while the top half depicts the burning of the Dacian capital and the suicide of the king of the Dacians, Decebalus, while his loyal followers watched. Interestingly, the scenes do not depict the actual brutality of war. Instead, the Dacians are represented as submissive—heads hung low in defeat—the scenes always show Roman soldiers in control. Inside the column is a spiral staircase that would carry noble people and special guests to view the glory of the forum from the top of the column. It is said that the transition from escaping the nearly dark staircase—lit only by periodic holes—into the blinding daylight caught guests off guard and reinforced the glamour and shock of the splendor of Rome. The column was dedicated in AD 113.
Trajan’s Column Still Stands Proudly Today
It is said that after Trajan passed away in AD 117, he was actually cremated and his urn was placed inside the column along with his wife Plotina.
Patrons Goals/Concerns
After years upon years of the costly Dacian wars, Trajan sought to regain popularity by building the beautiful forum. The Roman people were wary after a seemingly endless bout of war against the Dacians. Not only were the wars costly to the people through increased taxing, but the purpose of the war was also unclear to many of the Romans. Many of the ancient monuments standing today tell a similar tale of political propaganda, much like modern day “pork barrel” projects to sway the opinion of the people. By providing a public space for Roman citizens to enjoy and conduct business, Trajan secured his position as a people-oriented and caring emperor. The “greatest fora of all time” additionally commemorated the achievement of the victorious Roman soldiers. Furthermore, the plunder from the wars was a tangible indication of the profitability of the war and a sign of Rome’s power and dominance.
Trajan was a war-minded man. It is hypothesized that Trajan used the splendor of the forum and markets to gain the peoples’ support of the upcoming Parthian wars and immortalize his previous victories. Unlike the Dacian wars, Trajan was merely motivated by glory to initiate this battle.
Another author speculates that Trajan built his column with the goals of making it a public funerary monument. In ancient Roman times it was thought that to keep the spirit of the deceased alive, their burial site needed to be viewed, discussed, or walked past. It is clear that placing his funerary monument in the middle of the forum was ideal for Trajan. Furthermore, circumambulating the monument also stirred the spirit. Therefore, the clockwise scroll up the sides of Trajan’s column and the interior spiral staircase forced people to circulate the tomb. It is unlikely that Trajan publicly announced his intent of making the column his burial site. Caesar was not received well when he announced his desire to be buried within the city limits and was soon thereafter killed. Therefore, it is no surprise that Trajan kept his intentions quiet.
What was particularly interesting?
During my research I read many articles articulating specific parts of the forum, market, or column, but one article that I found especially interesting was an engineering article that explained how the column was erected. The building of Trajan’s forum was not only an architectural feat and an aesthetic testament to Roman prestige, but also a sign of Roman creativity and excellence in engineering.
I also found it interesting that Pope Gregorio the Great was so inspired by Trajan’s compassionate reign that he prayed to God for his soul. It is said that in a dream God appeared to the Pope and assured him that Trajan had been delivered to heaven, but he was never again to intercede for pagans.
Additionally, I was shocked to see how closely the column of Marcus Aurelius (standing in Piazza Colonna) resembles Trajan’s column. It is remarkable that Trajan’s column was so influential that other columns were actually fashioned to be nearly identical replicas.
In conclusion, Trajan’s forum, market, and column have stood the test of time. Juxtaposing two conflicting worlds of modernity and history, Rome proudly displays these ancient remnants to remind visitors of the imperial propaganda, strength, and prestige that once ruled. Viewing Trajan’s forum, I was struck by this dynamic and ever-evolving world. The crumbled marble—once the most impressive monument of its time—may have lost its structural integrity, but will forever tell the tale of a great man heralded for his victory, administration, and compassion.
Presenting at Trajan's Forum, (Note: Column in the background)
Works Consulted
Beard, Mary, and John Henderson. Classical Art : From Greece to Rome. Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2005.
Davies, Penelope J.E. The Politics of Perpetuation:Trajan's Column and the Art of Commemoration. American Journal of Archaeology, v. 101, 1997.
Lancaster, Lynne C. "Building Trajan's Column" American Journal of Archaeology 1999,419-39.
Meneghini, Roberto. "The Imperial Forums and Trajan Market." Rome: F.lli Palombi, c1993.
Packer, James. “Trajan's Glorious Forum.” Archaeology Jan./Feb. 1998: 32-41.
Rossi, Lino. “Trajan’s Column and the Dacian Wars.” New York: Cornell Univerity Press, 1971.
Wednesday, July 1, 2009
...doing as the Romans do!
Salve! So, on Sunday I watched the most amazing fireworks show. This is probably because the "Roman" candles were being shot off and surrounding the Castel de Sant'Angelo. Alex, a boy in the class, had his camera with him and took this video of the display.
Check it out at: http://www.facebook.com/v/767744406998
This is only a short little snippet of the actual display. It was one of those that kept going and going. People would start clapping like it was over... and then more fireworks would explode! It was fantastic. The fireworks were in honor of a specifically Roman holiday-- the patron saints of the city, St. Peter and Paul. There were literally hundreds of people watching the display and after the fireworks ceased there were murmurs of a Italian song. Just in time for fourth of July! (Watch the video and see how Italian fireworks are different. They don't have the same CRACK and BOOM of American fireworks.)
So, I've been trying to become a regular.. (and act like a true Roman) at some of my favorite spots. The Farnase Cafe for my morning cappuccino, the Forno (bakery) for my afternoon pizza bianca (pizza crust with olive oil, yum) and evening gelato at Giolitti. Since my coni piccoli's (small cone) are only increasing in size with each visit, I think they are starting to recognize me :) The gentlemen that work at Giolitti are very nice and always pile on an extra flavor (of their choosing) as well as crema (freshly whipped cream... mmmm.) So far I have tried.. pistachio, tiramisù, dark chocolate, watermelon, grapefruit, white chocolate, berry, peach, yogurt... and I think I'm going to get cinnamon tomorrow. ha! This morning, my friend at Farnase Cafe recommended I try my cappuccino with chocolate. To my delight, he fashioned the espresso in a beautiful heart design. It was so lovely. I'm still working on those Forno workers... they don't quite seem to recognize me... yet!
Yesterday, Tuesday, we visited the Vatican museums. What a beautiful place! I feel like I could spend hours in Raphael's tapestry room alone. I love the bright colors and realistic expressions captured in Christian art. I even recognized a Caravaggio painting that used to be featured in a church near the Campo de Fiori. A print is now occupying its original location-- so it was really fascinating to see the real painting. SO, after zigging and zagging through the painting rooms, the tapestry rooms, the pagan art statue garden and papal apartments we finally arrived at the Sistine Chapel. I have to say-- I was a little disappointed. Not because Michaelangelo's work was overrated-- I could let my eyes tip-toe across that ceiling for days-- I was disappointed because there was nothing "chapel" feeling about my experience. Against the posted "prohibited" signs, people were talking loudly and snapping photos. Something about all the sardine-packed tourists simply staring at the infamous "Creation of Adam," robbed the chapel of its sacred and holy atmosphere. Maybe I was tired and hungry from a long day... but personally, I think St. Peter's is waaaay cooler. I can't wait to go back there to attend mass :)
This afternoon, after a loooong day of class discussions, watching The Merchant of Venice and getting caught in the rain walking back from Castle de Sant'Angelo we had a class wine tasting. It is evident that Mossimo, the owner of the wine store, has a deep passion for wine. He slowly carried us through all the motions of an educated wine connoisseur-- swirling the wine and watching the alcoholic legs slowly creep down the side of the glass, inhaling the fruity, woody or spicy aromas, carefully examining the shade and opaqueness of the wine and lastly (my favorite part!) taking a big gulp and allowing the liquid to slosh around your tongue, teeth and gums to ensure all your taste buds are fully exposed to the deliciousness. Along with some appetizers, our wine tasting was paid for through our program! woohoo!
Every evening I have been taking a stroll (with lots of people-- don't worry mama!) Once the suffocating sun has set, the Romans come out. Tonight we again visited the always-bustling Trevi fountain. Even though I have visited it many times, it is still such a spectacle to me. I have now thrown three coins into the fountain and have taken many, many mouthfuls of the neighboring drinking fountain to ENSURE I am coming back to Rome, some day.
Oh! I checked out an Italian phrasebook from the UW Rome Center library. I'm attempting to turn my knowledge of Spanish into Italian. Now I can say things like "I don't do drugs" and "I'm pregnant." ha. Yes, those are both phrases featured in the "Social" section of the book. Weeelll, I don't think I will be using those phrases as much, but it will be nice to communicate a little bit better. Tomorrow, I think I'm going to paint my first watercolor. Wish me luck!
Much love, wish you were all here enjoying it with me. xoxo.
Check it out at: http://www.facebook.com/v/
This is only a short little snippet of the actual display. It was one of those that kept going and going. People would start clapping like it was over... and then more fireworks would explode! It was fantastic. The fireworks were in honor of a specifically Roman holiday-- the patron saints of the city, St. Peter and Paul. There were literally hundreds of people watching the display and after the fireworks ceased there were murmurs of a Italian song. Just in time for fourth of July! (Watch the video and see how Italian fireworks are different. They don't have the same CRACK and BOOM of American fireworks.)
So, I've been trying to become a regular.. (and act like a true Roman) at some of my favorite spots. The Farnase Cafe for my morning cappuccino, the Forno (bakery) for my afternoon pizza bianca (pizza crust with olive oil, yum) and evening gelato at Giolitti. Since my coni piccoli's (small cone) are only increasing in size with each visit, I think they are starting to recognize me :) The gentlemen that work at Giolitti are very nice and always pile on an extra flavor (of their choosing) as well as crema (freshly whipped cream... mmmm.) So far I have tried.. pistachio, tiramisù, dark chocolate, watermelon, grapefruit, white chocolate, berry, peach, yogurt... and I think I'm going to get cinnamon tomorrow. ha! This morning, my friend at Farnase Cafe recommended I try my cappuccino with chocolate. To my delight, he fashioned the espresso in a beautiful heart design. It was so lovely. I'm still working on those Forno workers... they don't quite seem to recognize me... yet!
Yesterday, Tuesday, we visited the Vatican museums. What a beautiful place! I feel like I could spend hours in Raphael's tapestry room alone. I love the bright colors and realistic expressions captured in Christian art. I even recognized a Caravaggio painting that used to be featured in a church near the Campo de Fiori. A print is now occupying its original location-- so it was really fascinating to see the real painting. SO, after zigging and zagging through the painting rooms, the tapestry rooms, the pagan art statue garden and papal apartments we finally arrived at the Sistine Chapel. I have to say-- I was a little disappointed. Not because Michaelangelo's work was overrated-- I could let my eyes tip-toe across that ceiling for days-- I was disappointed because there was nothing "chapel" feeling about my experience. Against the posted "prohibited" signs, people were talking loudly and snapping photos. Something about all the sardine-packed tourists simply staring at the infamous "Creation of Adam," robbed the chapel of its sacred and holy atmosphere. Maybe I was tired and hungry from a long day... but personally, I think St. Peter's is waaaay cooler. I can't wait to go back there to attend mass :)
This afternoon, after a loooong day of class discussions, watching The Merchant of Venice and getting caught in the rain walking back from Castle de Sant'Angelo we had a class wine tasting. It is evident that Mossimo, the owner of the wine store, has a deep passion for wine. He slowly carried us through all the motions of an educated wine connoisseur-- swirling the wine and watching the alcoholic legs slowly creep down the side of the glass, inhaling the fruity, woody or spicy aromas, carefully examining the shade and opaqueness of the wine and lastly (my favorite part!) taking a big gulp and allowing the liquid to slosh around your tongue, teeth and gums to ensure all your taste buds are fully exposed to the deliciousness. Along with some appetizers, our wine tasting was paid for through our program! woohoo!
Every evening I have been taking a stroll (with lots of people-- don't worry mama!) Once the suffocating sun has set, the Romans come out. Tonight we again visited the always-bustling Trevi fountain. Even though I have visited it many times, it is still such a spectacle to me. I have now thrown three coins into the fountain and have taken many, many mouthfuls of the neighboring drinking fountain to ENSURE I am coming back to Rome, some day.
Oh! I checked out an Italian phrasebook from the UW Rome Center library. I'm attempting to turn my knowledge of Spanish into Italian. Now I can say things like "I don't do drugs" and "I'm pregnant." ha. Yes, those are both phrases featured in the "Social" section of the book. Weeelll, I don't think I will be using those phrases as much, but it will be nice to communicate a little bit better. Tomorrow, I think I'm going to paint my first watercolor. Wish me luck!
Much love, wish you were all here enjoying it with me. xoxo.
Saturday, June 27, 2009
First Week of Class
Buonjourno! It has been a busy, busy week so there wasn't much time to blog. So let me give you all the readers digest version of the week. Also-- to find out more about the actual site/monuments we visit and what we do each day check out our class blog "Daily Diary" at http://dailydiarys09.blogspot.com/
It's a busy Saturday afternoon at the market- Campo de Fiori. Sitting in my third floor apartment I can hear a clarinet player serenading tourists, a man attempting to sell fake designer purses (he keeps saying "Bag with free things! Heylow.. it's pretty funny), a myriad of clanking and crashing as the vendors start to pack up their stands and prepare for a siesta and the constant honking of an impatient Vespa. Life is good here in Roma!
After we moved in on Monday afternoon, we were treated to a delicious (and authentic) Italian FEAST. We had a beautiful selection of antipasta (appetizers) including thinly sliced tuna with arugula (SO good!), eggplant parmigana, a spinch/cheese patty, sautéed zucchini and a piece of really crusty bread with provolone and tomatoes... and that was ONLY the appetizers! ha. Then, I enjoyed a bowl of eggplant, peppers and feta cheese fetachini. So good-- probably the best pasta I've had here so far :) For the main course I enjoyed veal with potatoes and for dessert, tiramisù. Yum.
Educationally, this week was all about ancient Rome and the ubiquity of political propaganda observed in the epic monuments. Tuesday we headed out to the Roman Forum for class. Rome is literally my classroom. Nearly everyday we learn about the significance, history, controversy, symbolism etc. of the monument/site as we are standing in front of it. It's an amazing way to learn. Walking around the 2000 year old ruins-- the Roman forum is definitely a place where a good imagination is helpful. Restructuring the crumbled columns into a bustling meeting place adorned in colored marbles and bronze statues/leafing makes the site come to life. I enjoy trying to put myself into ancient Rome... toga, toga, toga!
Wednesday we had our first class with Professor Modiano (Gift and Sacrifice.) It is a classroom based humanities type course, but still extremely thought provoking. Professor Modiano is an incredibly engaging teacher and the subject-matter is very interesting. After class, we went to the Ara Pacis. The ancient Temple/arch was once used as a place to slaughter sacrificial animals. Really beautiful! For dinner, Erin made me some gnocci (purchased from the dairy store) with sausage (purchased from the pork store) and peppers, garlic, onions (purchased from the market!) cooked in olive oil and wine. Oooh, yum. Just thinking about it makes me hungry :) ha. Later that evening, we took a break from our reading and walked to Trevi with some boys here from Oregon studying architecture at the UW Rome Center. Earlier that day they had met with Rome's expert on aquaducts/fountains. So, it was an enjoyable and informative trip to Trevi. We learned that the tradition "toss three coins over your shoulder to ensure you'll come back to Rome" originated as drinking water from a fountain on the right side of Trevi. So of course, we all took a BIG slurp of water to ensure that we'd come back to Roma! (Don't worry moms, the water was completely drinkable-- there are drinking water fountains all over this city!)
Thursday we went to the Coliseum and the Baths of Caracalla. We all got a little touristy and took "gladiator" pictures-- muscles flexed and fierce facial expressions. Did you know that they used to flood the Coliseum and actually have "sea" battles?? It is hard to imagine that so many people enjoyed watching the brutality and public execution of these battles. Pretty sickening to imagine-- they justified the fighting because many of the gladiators were criminals or murders. It is said that one man was chained to a post and eaten alive by a bear for all to watch. This man was either a Christian or had done something wrong (I can't remember what!) and this gruesome public execution was a threat to others. Then, there was a play written about the man, and every year they would be a reenactment using a real man and a real bear... year after year. Disgusting. The Baths of Caracalla were much more relaxing. In ancient Rome, after the morning work and afternoon siesta, the people would head to the baths. Here they would get massaged and pampered and then jump into cool, warm or hot pools. I wish it still existed. My shoulders are feeling a little tight and on a hot day like today-- a cool pool sounds like a dream come true :) For dinner, some of the girls went out for some pizza! I cannot properly describe how delicious Italian pizza is. The crust is literally cracker thin, but it is crispy and doughy at the same time. There must be some sort of structural complexity to the crust, because Romans LOAD their pizzas with the good stuff. You'd think a thin little crust wouldn't be able to hold all the fix-ins.
On Friday, after Professor Modiano's class we headed out to Trajan's Column, Market and forum for MY presentation. I was happy to get it behind me. Trajan was a great emperor and Rome truly hit its peak under his rule. The excess of gold and silver he brought back from the Dacian wars funded his building of the "greatest fora of all time." And... the market is literally the first indoor shopping mall. Mall-rats everywhere are eternally indebted to Trajan. After my presentation, Nick taught us all about the Pantheon. It was a good day and we were both SO relieved to be done. For dinner, some of the girls and I enjoyed a Roman classic-- filletti baccala-- fried cod! yum.
So far, Rome has really captured my heart. My favorite places have all been discovered through just wandering the streets. Anytime I walk past a church and see that it is open-- I get this impulse to run inside. Every single church I have been inside makes my jaw drop. They are truly breathtaking. Decorated with paintings and sculptures by Caravaggio and Bernini-- every church is museum in itself. Yesterday, we walked into a church and a group of Italian nuns were saying the rosary. It was simply beautiful. Hearing their voices in unison praising God and absorbing the gold-leafed and marble adorned statues, alters and floors. I can't help but lite a candle in each one I walk in... so lovely.
Another thought: I've noticed that the homeless population is starkly different than it is in Seattle. It is truly heartbreaking to see the people begging because often times they are older women. Dressed in tattered scarves with canes to support their bent backs-- it is much harder to walk past these women than the stereotypical beer-bellied man who needs money for his next drink. My heart goes out to these women... it's truly hard to know what to do. I smile and say "ciao," but what else can I do. This morning I passed a woman, who had huge growths on her head. It looked like she had fist-sized bubbles of skin all over her scalp. It was really bizarre looking. I know that Italians do take good care of their homeless population, but seeing that woman this morning was my first dose of culture shock.
Goal for the weekend: find some art supplies. I've decided I'm going to be like the Roman artists and set-up camp beside a picturesque alley or fountain and sketch/paint. Maybe I can even sell some to tourists?? ha. Just kidding!
Well, thanks for reading, this was a lengthy one! Sending much love to you!
Amore, Ciao bellas and bellos :)
Mayme
It's a busy Saturday afternoon at the market- Campo de Fiori. Sitting in my third floor apartment I can hear a clarinet player serenading tourists, a man attempting to sell fake designer purses (he keeps saying "Bag with free things! Heylow.. it's pretty funny), a myriad of clanking and crashing as the vendors start to pack up their stands and prepare for a siesta and the constant honking of an impatient Vespa. Life is good here in Roma!
After we moved in on Monday afternoon, we were treated to a delicious (and authentic) Italian FEAST. We had a beautiful selection of antipasta (appetizers) including thinly sliced tuna with arugula (SO good!), eggplant parmigana, a spinch/cheese patty, sautéed zucchini and a piece of really crusty bread with provolone and tomatoes... and that was ONLY the appetizers! ha. Then, I enjoyed a bowl of eggplant, peppers and feta cheese fetachini. So good-- probably the best pasta I've had here so far :) For the main course I enjoyed veal with potatoes and for dessert, tiramisù. Yum.
Educationally, this week was all about ancient Rome and the ubiquity of political propaganda observed in the epic monuments. Tuesday we headed out to the Roman Forum for class. Rome is literally my classroom. Nearly everyday we learn about the significance, history, controversy, symbolism etc. of the monument/site as we are standing in front of it. It's an amazing way to learn. Walking around the 2000 year old ruins-- the Roman forum is definitely a place where a good imagination is helpful. Restructuring the crumbled columns into a bustling meeting place adorned in colored marbles and bronze statues/leafing makes the site come to life. I enjoy trying to put myself into ancient Rome... toga, toga, toga!
Wednesday we had our first class with Professor Modiano (Gift and Sacrifice.) It is a classroom based humanities type course, but still extremely thought provoking. Professor Modiano is an incredibly engaging teacher and the subject-matter is very interesting. After class, we went to the Ara Pacis. The ancient Temple/arch was once used as a place to slaughter sacrificial animals. Really beautiful! For dinner, Erin made me some gnocci (purchased from the dairy store) with sausage (purchased from the pork store) and peppers, garlic, onions (purchased from the market!) cooked in olive oil and wine. Oooh, yum. Just thinking about it makes me hungry :) ha. Later that evening, we took a break from our reading and walked to Trevi with some boys here from Oregon studying architecture at the UW Rome Center. Earlier that day they had met with Rome's expert on aquaducts/fountains. So, it was an enjoyable and informative trip to Trevi. We learned that the tradition "toss three coins over your shoulder to ensure you'll come back to Rome" originated as drinking water from a fountain on the right side of Trevi. So of course, we all took a BIG slurp of water to ensure that we'd come back to Roma! (Don't worry moms, the water was completely drinkable-- there are drinking water fountains all over this city!)
Thursday we went to the Coliseum and the Baths of Caracalla. We all got a little touristy and took "gladiator" pictures-- muscles flexed and fierce facial expressions. Did you know that they used to flood the Coliseum and actually have "sea" battles?? It is hard to imagine that so many people enjoyed watching the brutality and public execution of these battles. Pretty sickening to imagine-- they justified the fighting because many of the gladiators were criminals or murders. It is said that one man was chained to a post and eaten alive by a bear for all to watch. This man was either a Christian or had done something wrong (I can't remember what!) and this gruesome public execution was a threat to others. Then, there was a play written about the man, and every year they would be a reenactment using a real man and a real bear... year after year. Disgusting. The Baths of Caracalla were much more relaxing. In ancient Rome, after the morning work and afternoon siesta, the people would head to the baths. Here they would get massaged and pampered and then jump into cool, warm or hot pools. I wish it still existed. My shoulders are feeling a little tight and on a hot day like today-- a cool pool sounds like a dream come true :) For dinner, some of the girls went out for some pizza! I cannot properly describe how delicious Italian pizza is. The crust is literally cracker thin, but it is crispy and doughy at the same time. There must be some sort of structural complexity to the crust, because Romans LOAD their pizzas with the good stuff. You'd think a thin little crust wouldn't be able to hold all the fix-ins.
On Friday, after Professor Modiano's class we headed out to Trajan's Column, Market and forum for MY presentation. I was happy to get it behind me. Trajan was a great emperor and Rome truly hit its peak under his rule. The excess of gold and silver he brought back from the Dacian wars funded his building of the "greatest fora of all time." And... the market is literally the first indoor shopping mall. Mall-rats everywhere are eternally indebted to Trajan. After my presentation, Nick taught us all about the Pantheon. It was a good day and we were both SO relieved to be done. For dinner, some of the girls and I enjoyed a Roman classic-- filletti baccala-- fried cod! yum.
So far, Rome has really captured my heart. My favorite places have all been discovered through just wandering the streets. Anytime I walk past a church and see that it is open-- I get this impulse to run inside. Every single church I have been inside makes my jaw drop. They are truly breathtaking. Decorated with paintings and sculptures by Caravaggio and Bernini-- every church is museum in itself. Yesterday, we walked into a church and a group of Italian nuns were saying the rosary. It was simply beautiful. Hearing their voices in unison praising God and absorbing the gold-leafed and marble adorned statues, alters and floors. I can't help but lite a candle in each one I walk in... so lovely.
Another thought: I've noticed that the homeless population is starkly different than it is in Seattle. It is truly heartbreaking to see the people begging because often times they are older women. Dressed in tattered scarves with canes to support their bent backs-- it is much harder to walk past these women than the stereotypical beer-bellied man who needs money for his next drink. My heart goes out to these women... it's truly hard to know what to do. I smile and say "ciao," but what else can I do. This morning I passed a woman, who had huge growths on her head. It looked like she had fist-sized bubbles of skin all over her scalp. It was really bizarre looking. I know that Italians do take good care of their homeless population, but seeing that woman this morning was my first dose of culture shock.
Goal for the weekend: find some art supplies. I've decided I'm going to be like the Roman artists and set-up camp beside a picturesque alley or fountain and sketch/paint. Maybe I can even sell some to tourists?? ha. Just kidding!
Well, thanks for reading, this was a lengthy one! Sending much love to you!
Amore, Ciao bellas and bellos :)
Mayme
Monday, June 22, 2009
Day 3: Nick's 22nd Birthday! (Sunday)
Sorry, I got waaay too tired last night to write about my 3rd day spent in Roma. So here it goes... since it was Sunday, some of the other fellow Catholics (Erin, Cat, Laura) and I decided to scope out a church to attend mass. As I'm sure you know, Rome has no shortage of Catholic churches. We decided on St. Susana, a church within walking distance of the hostel and a sister to a parish in Boston. The mass was conducted in English-- and the priest seemed very nice, except for the time he literally waited for a painful 15 or so seconds for a family coming in late to find their seats. He then says "settle down now!" Ah! I was so embarrassed for the family. Personally, I think it's great that Rome inspires people to attend church, no matter of their regularity of attendance.
As we were walking back to the hostel, we decided to stop into another church we passed along the way. I couldn't remember why the church "St. Maria della Vittorio" sounded SO familiar until we walked inside and realized it housed Bernini's Ecstasy of St. Teresa. For 5 credits, I am doing a group research project on this exhibit. It was breath-taking to see it in person, and really satisfying to know some of the controversy and history behind the sculpture. Apparently the look of surprise/awe on my face as I entered the chapel was pretty entertaining to some British women who were passing us at the door. This serendipitous event truly epitomizes my experience here in Rome so far. It is easy to be unconsciously strolling down the street and just fall upon two-thousand year old ruins or an infamous Bernini sculpture. Rome is essentially a big scavenger hunt. Curiosity is a BIG bonus in Rome.
Since it was Nick's 22nd birthday, I really wanted to do something especially fun. Nick was being a good honors student and working diligently on his upcoming presentation, while I schemed with the Canadian hostel employee (Justin). Justin suggested riding the train to a nearby beach for the afternoon. Excited about the plan, I went outside to convince Nick and the others... just as the grayest looking clouds encroached on the day. On to plan B, climbing the 500+ stairs to the very top of the cupola of St. Peter's Basilica. It is Roman law that no building can be higher than the dome, so the view from the top encompasses Rome in ALL its glory. As we (Erin, Nick, Maggie, Peter and I) stepped into Vatican square lightning flashed and thunder crashed-- which only seemed to add to the sheer power and majesty of this city of God. So, that little voice inside my head told me it wasn't the smartest idea to go to the HIGHEST point in Rome during a lightning storm, but we justified ourselves by thinking that if we did get struck by lightning and die that it would've resembled the Old Testament times of God striking people down with a thunderbolt... and decided we'd be infamous. Catholic newsletters everywhere would publish that story. ha (or maybe not so funny for the moms reading this xo.) Anyway, because of the rain-- the crowds were very small and we zipped through all the lines. The view of the high alter and the inside of St. Peter's from the inside of the cupola and the view of Rome/Vatican city from the top of the cupola was truly amazing. I suggest paying the 5euro and getting the quad-workout and making the trek up the stairs. You won't regret it :)
After we were thoroughly soaked from walking around (and around and around...) the top of the cupola we decided it was time to get dry and some dinner. A group of 8 of us wandered around for nearly an hour looking for the perfect Italian restaurant. We definitely had the "Goldie Locks" syndrome- either the price was a bit too steep, or the menu wasn't quite what we were looking for, or some other objection. Finally after asking some locals for a recommendation we found exactly what we were looking for. The Porca Vacca (the fat cow) was a pizzeria extraordinaire. There were beautiful cases of roasts, streaks, prime ribs, yuuum. We were clearly the only English-speaking people in the entire restaurant and the waiter seemed REALLY irritated that we didn't know Italian when he approached our table. He quickly passed us off to an English-speaking waiter- Ergent (pronounced kinda like 'arrogant') or Eric ('Er-eek') for short. Eric tried SO hard to please us-- helping us navigate the menu, select the best meals available and he even whipped together a handmade pastry/dessert for Nick's birthday. My daily goal was to eat some tiramisu-- and was achieved with a specail Nutella-infused rendition from the restaurant. All of us left much happier (we got a little grump along that loooong trek), very full and excited to return for a bistecca (steak) next time!
So far today, Day 4, we just moved into our new apartments. I am excited to live literally on the Campo de Fiori. Outside my window, you can see all the street vendors, farmers with produce and umbrella/canopy clad restaurants. We had a brief orientation and tonight we have our "Welcome" dinner. I'm getting pretty hungry :)
Sunday, June 21, 2009
Daily Goals: Missions Accomplished.
So, I've been a little lazy about this blog business and have chosen to sleep instead of blogging the last few nights. ha. Here's what went down:
Day 2 in Roma:
I started the day soaked in sweat, lovely. Apparently no one was joking when they said how HOT Rome can be. Attached to our hostel is an outdoor patio where breakfast is served, WiFi is free and the people watching is plentiful. I have decided that apart from noting my experience amid the ancient history and splendor of Rome, I am planning on using this blog to describe my favorite meals of the day. Also, I have been making daily goals. So far these goals have been focused on food items that I REALLY want to consume. My goal for Day 2 was scoring the best gelato in town. Around the corner from the Pantheon my mission was completed. I enjoyed a cup of dark chocolatey/liquery, pineapple/white chocolate, cafe and raspberry (with seeds, yum) gelato. A word for the wise-- even though gelato in a cone looks SO good avoid the temptation. The warm weather of Rome melts gelato in literally .5 seconds.
Nick, Peter and I were joined by some more people from the program and decided to show them around. ha... yea. After spending about 30 hours in Rome I already feel like an expert of bus route 40/64, the underground, navigating maps/streets and asking pleasant looking locals for directions. We wandered through the Pantheon, using Nick as our tour guide (he's doing an independent presentation on it) and enjoyed piecing together the transition of a pagan temple to a Catholic church. Truly, Rome is full of juxtapositions. Literally standing side-by-side, the Pantheon and McDonalds create an atmosphere of contrast between the ancient civilization and modernity coexisting in one environment. For dinner, a group of six of us (Nick, Maggie, Peter, Erin, Melanie, me!) strolled along the streets to find a nice little Italian joint. I have decided the best strategy in ordering is asking the waiter/waitress for their personal recommendation. I have found that although the meals aren't exactly what I would usually order-- I have not been disappointed yet. For dinner, I ordered spaghetti with a treasure trove of sea food. There were literally tiny squid (tentacles included), mussels, butter clams and shrimp in their shells. It was absolutely DELICIOUS. I forced Peter and Nick to help me finish... it was WAY too good to leave behind. That pretty much sums up Day 2.
Day 2 in Roma:
I started the day soaked in sweat, lovely. Apparently no one was joking when they said how HOT Rome can be. Attached to our hostel is an outdoor patio where breakfast is served, WiFi is free and the people watching is plentiful. I have decided that apart from noting my experience amid the ancient history and splendor of Rome, I am planning on using this blog to describe my favorite meals of the day. Also, I have been making daily goals. So far these goals have been focused on food items that I REALLY want to consume. My goal for Day 2 was scoring the best gelato in town. Around the corner from the Pantheon my mission was completed. I enjoyed a cup of dark chocolatey/liquery, pineapple/white chocolate, cafe and raspberry (with seeds, yum) gelato. A word for the wise-- even though gelato in a cone looks SO good avoid the temptation. The warm weather of Rome melts gelato in literally .5 seconds.
Nick, Peter and I were joined by some more people from the program and decided to show them around. ha... yea. After spending about 30 hours in Rome I already feel like an expert of bus route 40/64, the underground, navigating maps/streets and asking pleasant looking locals for directions. We wandered through the Pantheon, using Nick as our tour guide (he's doing an independent presentation on it) and enjoyed piecing together the transition of a pagan temple to a Catholic church. Truly, Rome is full of juxtapositions. Literally standing side-by-side, the Pantheon and McDonalds create an atmosphere of contrast between the ancient civilization and modernity coexisting in one environment. For dinner, a group of six of us (Nick, Maggie, Peter, Erin, Melanie, me!) strolled along the streets to find a nice little Italian joint. I have decided the best strategy in ordering is asking the waiter/waitress for their personal recommendation. I have found that although the meals aren't exactly what I would usually order-- I have not been disappointed yet. For dinner, I ordered spaghetti with a treasure trove of sea food. There were literally tiny squid (tentacles included), mussels, butter clams and shrimp in their shells. It was absolutely DELICIOUS. I forced Peter and Nick to help me finish... it was WAY too good to leave behind. That pretty much sums up Day 2.
Saturday, June 20, 2009
From the Emerald city to the Eternal city
Ciao! Greetings from Roma. I had a slight (HUGE!) panic attack when I realized my flight out of Seattle was actually scheduled to takeoff at 12:55pm instead of 9:30pm. Coming to the rescue, Mom/Lindsay and I woke up with the sun (4am) and cruised over to Seattle. Without checking ANY bags (I was really proud of myself) Nick Kramer, my travel buddy, and I jumped on a plane to Amsterdam.
On the plane I sat by this lovely British man who was headed back to England for his 17-year old daughter's Prom! Enjoying some complimentary wine, I watched the film Taken. I'm pretty sure I elbowed the nice British guy a couple times-- that's an INTENSE movie. ha. Thankfully, I was awake only to eat for the remainder of the flight.
Finally arriving in Roma, Nick and I found a 'real' cab (not to be confused with the Gypsy cab drivers or the ones without meters) and we received a brief tour of Roma on our way to the Campo de Fiori/UW Rome Center. Dropped off at the edge of a bustling market, we really had no idea where to go. We drug our bags across the uneven cobblestone, asked a nice (and perfectly plump) Italian woman where the 'Hotel Campo de Fiori' (a major landmark 'adjacent' to the UWRC) was located. After finding the hotel, we stumbled around a while with our directions in hand-- puzzled by which of the doors was 'adjacent' to the hotel. Finally, we discovered the mammoth green doors covered in graffiti belonged to the UWRC. Never would've guessed that! At the UWRC we dropped off our big bags, got a map of Roma and some recommendations of good places to eat. First stop-- the cell phone store (TIM)! At TIM, we bumped into a group of UW students here for the CHID program. So, there were LOTS of familiar faces. Next we jumped on a bus and headed for Hostel Yellow. Arriving at the hostel, Nick and I were in separate rooms-- but staying in my room there were two sweet sisters from Oklahoma and two boys from New York. Our hostel is packed with Americans. ha. After freshening up, we connected with another boy from our program, Peter, and headed back to the Campo. We wandered around, taking in the picturesque back-alleys and hole-in-the-wall restaurants. We walked to Piazza Navona, where there was no shortage of artists, hand-holding, fountains, cobblestones and photo-opts. Adhering to our stomaches' obnoxious growls, we decided it was time for some pizza and wine! I enjoyed a delicious four-cheese zuccini flower pizza and some white wine. Then, Nick and I decided to go on a Rick Steves evening stroll from Campo de Fiori to the Spanish Stairs. We enjoyed walking through Rome in the twilight-- awe-struck by the Pantheon, bumped into Trajan's Column/Market, witnessed a proposal at Trevi fountain and climbed EVERYONE of the Spanish stairs. Jumping onto a Metro/underground-- we finally headed home... and that was only Day 1, many more to come!
On the plane I sat by this lovely British man who was headed back to England for his 17-year old daughter's Prom! Enjoying some complimentary wine, I watched the film Taken. I'm pretty sure I elbowed the nice British guy a couple times-- that's an INTENSE movie. ha. Thankfully, I was awake only to eat for the remainder of the flight.
Finally arriving in Roma, Nick and I found a 'real' cab (not to be confused with the Gypsy cab drivers or the ones without meters) and we received a brief tour of Roma on our way to the Campo de Fiori/UW Rome Center. Dropped off at the edge of a bustling market, we really had no idea where to go. We drug our bags across the uneven cobblestone, asked a nice (and perfectly plump) Italian woman where the 'Hotel Campo de Fiori' (a major landmark 'adjacent' to the UWRC) was located. After finding the hotel, we stumbled around a while with our directions in hand-- puzzled by which of the doors was 'adjacent' to the hotel. Finally, we discovered the mammoth green doors covered in graffiti belonged to the UWRC. Never would've guessed that! At the UWRC we dropped off our big bags, got a map of Roma and some recommendations of good places to eat. First stop-- the cell phone store (TIM)! At TIM, we bumped into a group of UW students here for the CHID program. So, there were LOTS of familiar faces. Next we jumped on a bus and headed for Hostel Yellow. Arriving at the hostel, Nick and I were in separate rooms-- but staying in my room there were two sweet sisters from Oklahoma and two boys from New York. Our hostel is packed with Americans. ha. After freshening up, we connected with another boy from our program, Peter, and headed back to the Campo. We wandered around, taking in the picturesque back-alleys and hole-in-the-wall restaurants. We walked to Piazza Navona, where there was no shortage of artists, hand-holding, fountains, cobblestones and photo-opts. Adhering to our stomaches' obnoxious growls, we decided it was time for some pizza and wine! I enjoyed a delicious four-cheese zuccini flower pizza and some white wine. Then, Nick and I decided to go on a Rick Steves evening stroll from Campo de Fiori to the Spanish Stairs. We enjoyed walking through Rome in the twilight-- awe-struck by the Pantheon, bumped into Trajan's Column/Market, witnessed a proposal at Trevi fountain and climbed EVERYONE of the Spanish stairs. Jumping onto a Metro/underground-- we finally headed home... and that was only Day 1, many more to come!
Subscribe to:
Comments (Atom)
